Part 1. Prague
I believe that each city has its own spirit and soul. And if you like and respect it, the city will show you its secrets, hidden paths and will fulfil all traveller’s needs. This journey turned into the dialog with different cities. Sometimes it was a senseless chatter about everything around, sometimes it was a talk of the good old friends… Ok, let’s start our trip.
It was our second visit to Prague. The decision came to us easily and naturally. There still were a lot of places to see and to go. The politics is changing, the Euro is becoming more and more expensive… But decisions are being made by our heart, not by our mind. The mind is just slightly correcting our way. We knew the city well, we had some favourite places, but there still were unexplored places on our map.
This time we stayed in Dalimil Hotel(3*). It is located in a historical part of the city called Žižkov. This area is said to have dozens of pubs and authentic restaurants. We’ve been there couple times for dinner and the food was quite good. The area is very convenient for a tourist’s living. City center is in 7-10 minutes of ride and 30 minutes of walk. Train and bus stations are even closer. There are lots of small hotels here because of this.
Where should go the traveller, who has just landed in Czech Republic and has just checked in the hotel? Our answer is Vyšehrad. First of all, it is one of the oldest places in Prague. The legend says that this place is the origin of the city. Secondly, it is very quiet and calm. Vyšehrad nowadays is a huge park surrounded by the fortress wall. It is really big, but not crowded by tourists. Groups never go here, and those solo travellers who found the place themselves are easily getting lost in its space. Thirdly, you can find some exciting views from the fortress walls there. Fourthly, there is more then 1000 years old st. Peter and st. Paul Basilica there. It is not as big as st. Vitus Cathedral in Prague Castle or st. Barbara’s Church in Kutna Hora (Bohemia), but it has an extraordinary atmosphere inside. Fifthly, there are fortress wall casemates. They are not frequently mentioned in tourist guides, but if you wish to evaluate the strength of the fortress walls, you should certainly go inside… And it is not the end of story ) Cemeteries that became the last resort for the great names of history, numerous restaurants with delicious sausages, grape vines growing near the walls… Vyšehrad is worth of slow and regardful visiting. And ideal for the first day in Czech Republic after the sleepless night and a long flight.
Lovely cafe in Vyšehrad.
Casemates and original sculptures of Karlov Bridge.
st. Peter and st. Paul’s Cathedral.
Fortress wall part.
Prague view from the fortress wall.
Strahov Monastery. During our previous visit to Prague Castle, we were told that there is a monastery with a very old brewery and very special beer. We had no time to taste it that time, but we couldn’t miss it during our new visit. As we were going without a tour, we decided to find the transport ourselves. Tram seemed to be the best way to reach Hradčany. We started our way… And of course we got lost. Actually it is good, because you cannot be considered to be in travel without moments like this. It is a time when the city shares its secrets with you… We noticed a small park first… It could be just a dusty land with dried grass and dozen weak trees… But here trees were so huge that the whole park consisted of three large oaks. Siberia is not Tundra, we have lots of forests. But I saw huge trees like this for the first time in my life. Can be only surrounded by three people. I bet these trees saw a lot of things. After oaks, we found maples, sycamores… After 50+ photos in “Me and the tree” style, we’re continuing our searching for Prague Castle.
We entered from the other side, guided tours use another entrance. All paths were new and unknown. At first we found a very pleasant garden. With giant trees, flowerbeds, fountains and pavements – like in any normal garden.
By quiet streets and backyards of Hradčany (Castle District), we reached the monastery. What can I say? First of all, the beer is really tasty. 5 brands, strong enough, but delicious. Secondly, the place is really popular, so beer is quite expensive. Thirdly, nowadays monks do not take part in brewing anymore, but doesn’t make the taste worse. By the way, meat appetizers can replace a normal lunch. 🙂
It is not the monastery that Prague Castle is famous for. It is famous for its Castle complex with President’s residency, Loreta and other historical buildings… And, of cause, st. Vitus Cathedral. Even if you’re not interested in history and religion, this is still a must-see place. It is said that catholics built giant churches to suppress the will of the parishioners, to instil the fear of a Great Force, to show the insignificance of human life in front of the God’s face. But for me, these buildings are signs of the power of mankind, of the hard work, faith and sense of purpose. The Cathedral is colossal. And the inside seems to be even bigger then the outside… It always has cold, easy to breathe and wonderful atmosphere. The Cathedral is working and prayer services are being conducted.
We kept going along the right bank of the Vltava river and went down to the Karlov Bridge. We aimed to find the narrowest walking street near the Čertovka Channel. Prague decided to play with us… We were searching for three hours walking around the same places. Several times we passed by, but couldn’t see it. It was an affair of honour to find it. 🙂 During the search, we found the monastery of the Order of Malta. Very atmospheric place. There is a cafe in its courtyard, where we took some rest with a cup of ice coffee. Also there is John Lennon’s wall and bar nearby. And some street musicians around. Sometimes the process of search is more important and interesting then the search target.
Flights to Prague:
Hotel prices in Prague:
